Return to Italy - May 2011

For two weeks at the end of May I found myself in the Italian Alps searching for some steep creeks to blow away the cobwebs. Arriving in Milano we squeezed all the gear into the three door hatchback and bounced our way along the motorway, the boats on top squashing the poor Micra horribly. Oh how I love rental cars!

I had been to Italy two years ago when water levels were quite high and hoped for more of the same this time around. First up was the Ayasse River in the Aosta region. I knew little about the rivers in this area but soon discovered it is full of hidden gems and the Ayasse itself has to be one of the most spectacular runs in the country. It's a continuous IV+ with many, many drops and all in a lush green valley with a road running alongside. The river is divided up into 3 sections, the top and middle sections we ran. The final section, aptly named "California" had a bit too much water this time but deserves a return trip.

Neil takes flight on the Ayasse.

Brian on the Ayasse.

Pont Boset overlooks the Ayasse.

After a few days the rains came and we left Aosta for Piedmont and the Sesia valley. It was great to be back here again and I was excited at the prospect of checking out some new runs. Alberto's campsite in Campertogno was busy as usual with the Val Sesia River festival just about to kick off. We had a few nice runs down the Sesia then it was onto the Egua and a chance to play on the kicker slide. Levels were dropping though and many of the runs were too low. What to do?! The dry spell didn't last too long though as we had an apocalyptic thunder storm that night. Levels went off the scale and so thoughts turned to coffee and ice cream, the classic Italian rest day.

Freewheel on Egua.

More Egua sliding around.

Shadowing on the Egua.

After another run or two on the Egua, it was back over to the Ayasse for a run on the middle section. This bit is about 1.5km but there is no end of fun to be had with continuous drops, all a bit bigger and more technical than the top section. We caught this in high water which made it all the more fun but beware there are a few nasty siphons on this, one one of which we all portaged at the largest drop. The section ends in the "mega slide", a twisting slide about 50m long ending in a big pool and a super way to finish the day. Unless that is you fancy continuing to California...it's well worth checking this bit out but I think it needs low water to be feasible and it certainly was not low when we scouted it. It's a breathtaking 500m long gorge with several big drops and waterfalls which get progressively harder, and once your in your in. One for next time I hope. A great trip despite the up and down river levels. Alberto even broke out the Grappa and goats cheese on the final night.

I hope to post a short guide to the Ayasse in the near future. Ciao!

The Gronda valley.

Freeride day on the Egua.

Corsica and the Ice Cream Lady

In early April I found myself en route to Corsica with a crack team of Irish mercenaries and one technical writer. We went in search of the mystical ice cream hidden deep within the Corsican heartland. We had also heard there was amazing whitewater so we brought our kayaks along for the ride. If we failed to find the ice cream surely we would find a river or two to justify the horrendous carbon footprint we would leave in our wake. Kayak Session had even planned a week of festivities but more on that later.

Corsica is an Island.

As you approach on the ferry Corsica looms on the horizon, rising skyward from golden beaches to white capped peaks. The French call it The Island of Beauty. It is really very pretty. It's rivers are steep and committing but we were also met with some of the most incredibly scenic and unique valleys in Europe, if not the world. The winding mountain roads teeter above the abyss and the rivers peek out momentarily from the forests far, far below. Wild goats and pigs are common sights and we saw several large birds of prey soaring high above the cliffs. Time seems to stand still in the Corsican mountain villages where the friendly locals still make a living in much the same way as their great grandparents did. Olive and fruit trees are scattered across the hillsides and they take great pride in their local specialties. Their chestnut beer quickly became our aprés paddle drink of choice. That and wine in a box.

The Fium Orbo valley

We decided to go kayaking for the first week as it was still a bit too chilly for ice cream. It was a good alternative. The rivers were at sane levels and I was happy that most of the siphons were still visible. The first river we jumped on was the Lower Golo, complete with some friendly Germans who turned our river signals upside down. It is a lovely grade III run with more volume than your typical Corsican creek and a great warm up after the initial traveling tiredness. 

Day two and it was back to the Golo, this time the Upper. It's a long way from the Lower. It was also more like what we expected from Corsica. Steep grade IV with plenty of boulders in a forested valley. A bit low on the day but a super run all the same with some cool moves and plenty of boofing practice which would come in handy later on. A good river for getting in the groove and most of the rapids could be scouted from the boat. Although that was mainly due to our crazy Austrian probes! 

Drivers don't navigate. They drive.

Someone found the 80's German river guide that night and decided on the Middle Vecchio for no. 3. The guide gave it grade VII. Hmmm. (Note ~ If your thinking of writing a guidebook please don't make up your own grading system.) It was actually grade IV-V choked with boulders, siphons and under cuts to keep you on your toes. A fantastic run though it's quite committing and you certainly earn your lunch in there. The local boys don't stop to look at much. We stopped more often. Usually to look at rapids like the one below. We even got to use a hand signal for siphons. Unfortunately we lost a camera at the end but a splendid Corsican dinner in Corte soon had everything right.

Typical rapid on the Middle Vecchio.

The Travo was up next. You don't have a choice when to do the Travo, Monday is Travo day. It's just the way it is. This is another classic run with the picturesque amphitheater drops and one or two chunkier rapids. There is some fun portaging too at the skull and crossbones rapid. The rivers just kept coming and next up was the Middle Fium Orbo. This was just outrageous fun with lots of friendly drops and slides in glorious sunshine. The rocks are sharp though and they chewed up my hands for breakfast. My lasting memory from the run was meeting a solo German boater who was on his honeymoon. His new bride was patiently waiting with a rope at the most difficult rapid. Now that's my kind of lady!

 Good vibes in Ernella.

I have to mention the celebration of Corsican rivers and traditions organised by the Kayak Session boys Phillipe, Raphael et al. This 5 day gathering at the beautiful Camping Ernella site was a memorable occasion for us and a great source of information for those visiting for the first time. Some fantastic old films were played in the evenings on a big screen and there was even an evening of traditional Corsican food and music. 

Dam construction site in the Rizzanese valley.

The gathering was also organised to highlight the plight of the Rizzanese river system which is soon going to be lost to another hydro scheme. We were lucky enough to paddle both it and the other river which will be effected, the Codi. These are two of the most incredible rivers I have run. It is a real tragedy that both are being hit by this project. The dam site is a giant pock mark on the Rizzanese valley and the lake which will be created will change forever the lives of people living in the remote villages like Zoza. Show your support for the protests against this project by visiting SaveTheRizzanese. It is so sad to think we will never be able to experience these magical rivers again.

Jim mid flight on the Rizzanese.

Mickey styling a Rizzanese drop.

Wilmo takes off on the Rizzanese.