Corsica and the Ice Cream Lady

In early April I found myself en route to Corsica with a crack team of Irish mercenaries and one technical writer. We went in search of the mystical ice cream hidden deep within the Corsican heartland. We had also heard there was amazing whitewater so we brought our kayaks along for the ride. If we failed to find the ice cream surely we would find a river or two to justify the horrendous carbon footprint we would leave in our wake. Kayak Session had even planned a week of festivities but more on that later.

Corsica is an Island.

As you approach on the ferry Corsica looms on the horizon, rising skyward from golden beaches to white capped peaks. The French call it The Island of Beauty. It is really very pretty. It's rivers are steep and committing but we were also met with some of the most incredibly scenic and unique valleys in Europe, if not the world. The winding mountain roads teeter above the abyss and the rivers peek out momentarily from the forests far, far below. Wild goats and pigs are common sights and we saw several large birds of prey soaring high above the cliffs. Time seems to stand still in the Corsican mountain villages where the friendly locals still make a living in much the same way as their great grandparents did. Olive and fruit trees are scattered across the hillsides and they take great pride in their local specialties. Their chestnut beer quickly became our aprés paddle drink of choice. That and wine in a box.

The Fium Orbo valley

We decided to go kayaking for the first week as it was still a bit too chilly for ice cream. It was a good alternative. The rivers were at sane levels and I was happy that most of the siphons were still visible. The first river we jumped on was the Lower Golo, complete with some friendly Germans who turned our river signals upside down. It is a lovely grade III run with more volume than your typical Corsican creek and a great warm up after the initial traveling tiredness. 

Day two and it was back to the Golo, this time the Upper. It's a long way from the Lower. It was also more like what we expected from Corsica. Steep grade IV with plenty of boulders in a forested valley. A bit low on the day but a super run all the same with some cool moves and plenty of boofing practice which would come in handy later on. A good river for getting in the groove and most of the rapids could be scouted from the boat. Although that was mainly due to our crazy Austrian probes! 

Drivers don't navigate. They drive.

Someone found the 80's German river guide that night and decided on the Middle Vecchio for no. 3. The guide gave it grade VII. Hmmm. (Note ~ If your thinking of writing a guidebook please don't make up your own grading system.) It was actually grade IV-V choked with boulders, siphons and under cuts to keep you on your toes. A fantastic run though it's quite committing and you certainly earn your lunch in there. The local boys don't stop to look at much. We stopped more often. Usually to look at rapids like the one below. We even got to use a hand signal for siphons. Unfortunately we lost a camera at the end but a splendid Corsican dinner in Corte soon had everything right.

Typical rapid on the Middle Vecchio.

The Travo was up next. You don't have a choice when to do the Travo, Monday is Travo day. It's just the way it is. This is another classic run with the picturesque amphitheater drops and one or two chunkier rapids. There is some fun portaging too at the skull and crossbones rapid. The rivers just kept coming and next up was the Middle Fium Orbo. This was just outrageous fun with lots of friendly drops and slides in glorious sunshine. The rocks are sharp though and they chewed up my hands for breakfast. My lasting memory from the run was meeting a solo German boater who was on his honeymoon. His new bride was patiently waiting with a rope at the most difficult rapid. Now that's my kind of lady!

 Good vibes in Ernella.

I have to mention the celebration of Corsican rivers and traditions organised by the Kayak Session boys Phillipe, Raphael et al. This 5 day gathering at the beautiful Camping Ernella site was a memorable occasion for us and a great source of information for those visiting for the first time. Some fantastic old films were played in the evenings on a big screen and there was even an evening of traditional Corsican food and music. 

Dam construction site in the Rizzanese valley.

The gathering was also organised to highlight the plight of the Rizzanese river system which is soon going to be lost to another hydro scheme. We were lucky enough to paddle both it and the other river which will be effected, the Codi. These are two of the most incredible rivers I have run. It is a real tragedy that both are being hit by this project. The dam site is a giant pock mark on the Rizzanese valley and the lake which will be created will change forever the lives of people living in the remote villages like Zoza. Show your support for the protests against this project by visiting SaveTheRizzanese. It is so sad to think we will never be able to experience these magical rivers again.

Jim mid flight on the Rizzanese.

Mickey styling a Rizzanese drop.

Wilmo takes off on the Rizzanese.

Boofing on the Codi. Photo Mickey Barry.

From big slides and waterfalls on the Rizzanese to the endless drops and slots on the Codi we had definitely kept the best til last. Hopefully the classic section of the Codi will remain free flowing. Either way I hope to be back here next year. Parfait!

Dave sliding on the Rizzanese.

We did find eventually find the ice cream lady and she cast a spell over us with her pamplemousse and châtaigne. A word of warning though, when mixed with coffee the side effects can be very disturbing...

Rivers run...                                         

Lower Golo III

Upper Golo IV

Middle Vecchio IV-V

Travo IV-V

Middle Fium Orbo IV

Upper Fium Orbo IV-V

Tavignano Gorge III-IV

Rizzanese (Upper and Lower) III-V

Codi IV-V